Special Pre-Conference Workshop (Two and a Half Days)
Title: Climbing Wall Instructor Certification (Pilot Program)
Dates: April 29, 30, May 1 (please note start date)
Location: Boulder Rock Club, Boulder, CO
Start Time: 1 p.m. April 29, 8 a.m. April 30, May 1
End Time: 5 p.m.
Cost: $245.00
Presenter: John Bicknell, Owner, Boulder Rock Club and Colorado Mountain School
Presenter's Contact Information
Email: jbicknell@totalclimbing.com
Website: www.totalclimbing.com
Presenter's Bio:
John Bicknell is the owner of The Colorado Mountain School and The Boulder Rock Club (Total Climbing). Unlike most business owners, John spends nearly all his time on rock, ice and snow and is an AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide. John devotes considerable time and energy to leadership in the field and serves as the Board President of the American Mountain Guides Association. John has also been trained as a first responder; Outward Bound Instructor, Course Director and Lead Technical Trainer; and is an expert in avalanche safety. A father of three, John enjoys working with climbers of all ages and abilities.
Before climbing, John played college baseball at Harvard and three years of pro ball. He then earned a Master’s degree from the University of California Santa Barbara and worked as an earthquake geologist, but found himself increasingly drawn to outdoor adventure. By 1991 he was climbing and guiding full-time. He and his wife, Patty, eventually bought the BRC and CMS. He’s guided in Alaska, Nepal, Mexico, Ecuador, Bolivia, Peru and throughout the lower 48. He’s also climbed in Africa, Canada, France and Switzerland. Wherever he is, all forms of climbing interest him: "Rock, ice, alpine, plastic -- I love it all."
Workshop Description:
The CWA/AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Certification Program is a pilot program which will be launched in 2008 or 2009. The course will be two and a half days in length, (approximately 20 hours of instruction, skills demonstration, and evaluation) and will address the basic technical skills necessary to instruct at a climbing facility. The workshop will address the following general topic areas: client orientation and instruction, teaching general climbing skills including movement, belaying techniques, equipment and facility use, and rescue and emergency procedures. Because this is a pilot program for evaluation purposes, only a provisional certification or letter of completion will be provided at this time. However, we fully expect that candidates who complete this course will be provided a certification once the program is formally adopted by the AMGA and the CWA.
Workshop Outline:
CWA Climbing Wall Instructor Certification Program (Pilot)
At a minimum, training for candidates shall occur in each of the following technical competency areas. Candidates shall possess knowledge, demonstrate skills and teaching ability in each competency area.
Pre-requisites
1. 18 years of age.
2. At least one year personal climbing experience (a minimum of 20 outings climbing indoors and/or outdoors).
3. Current first aid and CPR (American Red Cross Basic – 5.5 to 6.5 hours).
Movement
1. Climbing ability: 5.8 top rope and 5.7 lead on artificial structures.
2. Movement demonstrating calm, confidence, good position, balance, solid base of support, no falls, and general body awareness.
3. Descending techniques: rappelling, and down climbing.
4. Ability to demonstrate a controlled fall.
Equipment and Facility Care, Use, and Inspection
1. Demonstrate the proper care, use and inspection of personal climbing equipment, including but not limited to: shoes, harness, belay devices, carabiners, rope, cordage, and slings.
2. The candidate possesses adequate knowledge of routine facility inspection practices according to the manufacturer's instructions and employer's policies and procedures.
3. Assess the physical condition and set up of the climbing facility and take appropriate corrective actions based on this assessment.
Orientation and Instruction
1. Ability to conduct a thorough patron orientation covering inherent risks of climbing, personal responsibility for risks and safety, and facility rules.
2. Ability to teach proper belay skills and technique for top roped climbing;
a. using an auto blocking belay device;
b. using a tube or plate type belay device;
c. belaying directly from the ground anchor using an auto blocking system;
3. Ability to teach proper belay skills and technique for lead climbing using a tube or plate type belay device.
4. Ability to teach proper use of an auto belay device.
5. Ability to teach basic rope management skills.
6. Ability to teach basic movement skills.
Belaying Skills
1. Demonstrate proper use of locking carabiners for climber belay rope attachment.
2. Tie and evaluate a figure eight knot for climber belay rope attachment.
3. Proper set up of belay system using an auto blocking belay device and a tube or plate type belay device.
4. Perform an effective top rope belay using an auto blocking belay device, and a tube or plate type belay device, demonstrating proper: technique, position, control, and communication.
5. Perform an effective lead belay using an auto blocking belay device and a tube or plate type belay device, demonstrating proper: technique, position, control, and communication.
6. Perform an effective self-belay.
Bouldering and Spotting
1. Ability to coach bouldering movement skills, including proper falling techniques.
2. Ability to teach proper spotting techniques, both stationary and moving.
3. Ability to select and use appropriate impact attenuating surfaces for bouldering.
Rescue and Emergency Procedures
1. Perform or provide for appropriate technical rescue in a timely manner.
2. Ability to activate facility emergency procedures if and when necessary.
3. Ability to record and report required factual information pertaining to emergencies.