Pre-Conference Workshop (Half Day)

Title: How to Spice up your Gym's Routesetting

Dates: May 1

Location: Boulder Rock Club, Boulder, CO

Start Time: 9 a.m.

End Time: 1 p.m.

Cost: $50.00

Primary Presenter: Mike Helt, Founder and Editor, Routsetter.com

Presenter's Contact Information

Email: mike@routesetter.com

Website: www.routesetter.com

Presenter's Bio:

Mike Helt is currently USA Climbing's first Director of Routesetter Education. Not only is he in charge of the certification program and all routesetting clinics, he has been Chief Setter for 17 competitions and additionally has set over a dozen local and Nationally sanctioned competitions. He has been the Director of Routesetting for two major gyms in the US and is the co-founder and routesetting consultant for Climbing Wall Management, LLC.

Mike Helt has been climbing for over a dozen years. In addition to his work with USA Climbing he is the founder and editor of Routesetter.com. As a leader in the indoor industry Mike is dedicated to creating a strong foundation on which professional route setters can build their careers.

Workshop Description:

This workshop will begin with a short lecture accompanied by photographic and video examples. The second part of this workshop will be a discussion of placement of holds with purpose. Attendees will be able to analyze how various hold placement affects a climber's body movement and when and where certain placements are appropriate. Attendees will also gain substantial knowledge in grading routes and problems. In the final portion of the workshop, each attendee will set two "spicy" problems which their fellow setters will climb and critique.

Attendees will learn through examples and hands-on experience how to set problems, routes, and sequences that are out-of-the-box original and spectacular. At the end of this workshop, students will have an understanding of the possibilities and pitfalls of these spicy routes. They will gain the skills necessary to turn a boring wall into an interesting and thought-provoking experience.

Workshop Outline:

1. Examples
    A. Video
    B. Photos
2. Place and Purpose
    A. When and Where is it appropriate
    B. What's the point?
    C. Grading
3. Hands-on setting
    A. You set two spicy problems
    B. Climb and critique one another's problems